Why do your jeans wear out so quickly? - Madhavi Venkatesan
The first pairs of jeans were
designed for durability.
Named for the French city of Nîmes,
denim was constructed as a sturdy
cotton weave worn by sailors.
This rugged material got even stronger
in the 19th century,
when Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis added
metal rivets to reinforce stress points.
Their design introduced a new brand
of durable trousers
for California miners that could
withstand years of wear and tear.
Over the course of the 20th century,
these working-class pants have transformed
into fashion icons.
But as the demand for jeans has gone up,
their durability has gone down.
Today, most pairs last
no longer than a year.
And each new pair you buy has a much
higher cost than you might think.
Every pair of jeans begins
its life in a cotton field.
It takes about 0.7 kilograms of cotton
to produce a single pair of pants.
Growing this much cotton requires
roughly 10,000 liters of water,
not to mention various herbicides
and pesticides,
which can contaminate groundwater.
The cotton is harvested by hand
or industrial machines
and transported to textile factories
where it’s spun into yarn.
At this point, it’s typically combined
with plastic fibers like spandex
to increase the yarn’s elasticity.
These plastic threads make modern jeans
more comfortable and flexible,
but also much less durable.
Next, the yarn is dyed
jeans’ trademark blue.
Historically, this color came
from natural plant-derived indigo.
But most modern manufacturers
use a synthetic dye
made from petroleum byproducts
and toxic chemicals.
Once dyed, the cotton-plastic blend
is woven into denim sheets,
which are then cut and sewn into jeans.
After assembly, some jeans undergo
additional procedures
to get a distressed look.
This often includes chemical sprays
and multiple cycles of acid-washing,
the toxic runoff can turn rivers
indigo-blue.
Finally, there are the zippers,
buttons, and rivets
made of copper and other metals,
whose mining is yet another source
of environmental degradation.
All in all, the manufacturing process
for a single pair of jeans
emits over 33 kilograms of carbon—
the equivalent of driving
over 110 kilometers.
But this process doesn't just
damage the environment.
Much of the world’s cotton is grown
in developing countries,
with poor labor practices
and few protections for workers.
Cotton here is often picked
by children or forced labor,
and most jean manufacturing plants
frequently expose workers
to toxic chemicals throughout production.
One particularly dangerous technique
called sandblasting
involves spraying jeans with fine sand
at high pressures
and has been linked with numerous cases
of incurable and often fatal lung disease.
Like many globally produced products,
jeans are made in poor countries
and bought in rich ones.
All these pants will likely be washed
dozens or even hundreds of times per year.
This energy intensive process breaks down
the plastics woven into each pair,
releasing microplastics into the water
and, perhaps most ironic of all,
shortening the jean’s lifespan.
Like most waste, discarded jeans
end up in landfills,
where their decomposition
releases methane gas,
while their dyes and plastics leach
into the soil and groundwater.
Some companies are working
on solutions here,
from using organic cotton
to recycling and reusing denim.
You can also help reduce the environmental
impact of your favorite pants
by buying used jeans
and buying fewer pairs altogether.
Denim manufacturers also recommend only
washing your jeans once every 10 wears.
And, when possible, air dry your pants
to reduce energy consumption.
Life cycle and labor problems like these
extend far beyond just jeans.
Some governments are pursuing policies
to make companies more responsible
for worker pay and welfare,
but unsustainable practices still run
rampant throughout the fashion industry.
So when the price tags on your
clothes seem like a steal,
it’s important to consider
who’s actually being robbed.
